Thorens Td150 Mkii Replinth

[alternativeroute]

Excellent! Thanks for the info. I found the thread: http://db.audioasylum.com/mhtml/m.html? ... ext%3D7dj8

Although both tables have tp13a arms they are slightly different. The second table is a newer table with the 'pin' type bearing... I took it apart and as I suspected the bearing is broken.


TP13a dead bearing by arclients, on Flickr

A forumite from my local forum is going to turn a new one for me. I am also keen to rewire the second table from cartridge to RCA...

[dean man jim]

You're very welcome, and please continue to document continued development of your TD150 'table(s)! Best luck to you in getting that bearing replicated, also

[Real1shepperd]

Excellent! Thanks for the info. I found the thread: http://db.audioasylum.com/mhtml/m.html? ... ext%3D7dj8

Although both tables have tp13a arms they are slightly different. The second table is a newer table with the 'pin' type bearing... I took it apart and as I suspected the bearing is broken.


TP13a dead bearing by arclients, on Flickr

A forumite from my local forum is going to turn a new one for me. I am also keen to rewire the second table from cartridge to RCA...

Do you know if InDaGrooves is still doing custom machining? I'd like to rewire my TP13a and use those beautiful weights you had made.

Kevin

[dean man jim]

Hi Kevin, and thanks very much. As of a year or so ago he was still doing custom work (he has also machined some arm plates for my Russco idler TT), so you could certainly write him via the VA e-mail portal and ask. Colby is not only a gifted machinist but an accomplished audiophile and a wonderful gentleman!
Jim

[mrMan]

Hello

Thats excellent work! Very nice looking turntables!

I'm soon going to restore my own TD150 MKII but I'm missing the original dust cover. I was thinking that someone here may have one left over?

Thanks in advance
/Erik

[alternativeroute]

I just love these tables. They just sound so good once you have given them a little TLC...

Just finished this beaut and she sounds excellent!!!


Thorens TD150mkII Bubinga - Top by arclients, on Flickr


Thorens TD150mkII Bubinga - cover front by arclients, on Flickr


Thorens TD150mkII Bubinga - no cover by arclients, on Flickr


Thorens TD150mkII Bubinga - back by arclients, on Flickr


Thorens TD150mkII Bubinga - in play by arclients, on Flickr

I have re-plinthed this classic with solid Bubinga sides and a 22mm MDF baseboard (painted black). The pictures tell the story. The Bubinga is finished with poly-wax and steel-wooled down with wax to a satin silky finish. The platter has been polished but does still bear pock-marks from age.

Bearing has been cleaned and oiled and the springs have been reset to original Thorens factory spec.

The arm is the classic Kugelarm (TP13a) that I have terminated at the back of the plinth with RCA's. I have also removed the power cord and added an IEC socket.

Riding the groove is the classic Shure M75 with a new stylus (elliptical). The front plastic piece of the stylus I have removed (long story)...

The dust-cover is in pretty neat condition (no cracks) and was salvaged from a broken TEAC PX-300. The hinges are new (from my local NAD agent).

[dean man jim]

You have created a new plinth that is simply beautiful! I think your choice of finish was a fantastic complement to the wood grain.

I've often wondered how the TD 150 would look with an armboard wide enough for the arm to be in the middle rather than toward the edge. The proportions of your table layout look great, without distracting at all from the original styling cues. Congratulations and thanks for sharing your project!

[alternativeroute]

Thanks for the compliment...

Here is another picture of the base:


Thorens TD150mkII Bubinga Plinth - bottom by arclients, on Flickr

Amazing what can be done for feet using inserts and 6mm welding tips... Another function of the inserts is that the welding tips can be removed and long (110mm) bolts put in their place. I have drilled access points to the suspension nuts in the bottom board so that final tweaking can take place in-situ... Once that elusive (yet attainable) 15 second bounce it achieved (with a true pistonic (sic) movement) I remove the long bolts and put the welding tips back in. There is also enough thread on the inserts to do some fine levelling of the table.

[korn11]

Hi,
I have just finished a rebuild of a TD150 mk2 with a Bubinga plinth (Thorens Gallery) but I have not been able to bring out the figure in the wood as you have.
The colour that you have achieved is beautiful, I used several coats of French polish but it didn’t really colour up, the figure is there, I just don’t know how to get at it. I really should stick to working with metal!
This is a cheeky question but would you mind telling me the manufacturer of the poly-wax that you used so I can track it down in the Uk please.
Thanks
Dave

[alternativeroute]

Hi,
I have just finished a rebuild of a TD150 mk2 with a Bubinga plinth (Thorens Gallery) but I have not been able to bring out the figure in the wood as you have.
The colour that you have achieved is beautiful, I used several coats of French polish but it didn’t really colour up, the figure is there, I just don’t know how to get at it. I really should stick to working with metal!
This is a cheeky question but would you mind telling me the manufacturer of the poly-wax that you used so I can track it down in the Uk please.
Thanks
Dave

Hi Dave,

Have a look at this thread/post: viewtopic.php?f=23&t=50310#p394009

I made them both from the same piece of timber and also with the same finish...

Your TD150 looks excellent!!! Congrats



Just a note on the timber. I am almost certain that the way the piece of Bubinga I have been using was planked is different from how it should of been planked...

I was expecting it to look more like this:



The sides come out like the bottom piece and the tops came out like the top piece:

[korn11]

Hi,
Thanks for the link and your kind words, I can’t take credit for the 5mm Perspex cover , a guy on ebay custom made it to suit the extra width, he did a great job and at a great price too.
My father and grand father were both cabinet makers and French polishers, I became an engineer…..but at least I can weld my mistakes!
I can work and shape wood without any problems but buying the right cut and getting the best colour from the wood, that’s an art. I have found Woodoc in the UK thanks and I will try it on some off cuts.
I have seen some stunning examples of Bubinga on the net but until you hold it in your hands it’s hard to believe that it could be so heavy, I can only imagine that the Bass guitar was made for Arnold Schwarzenegger!

Many thanks

Dave

[alternativeroute]

I have seen some stunning examples of Bubinga on the net but until you hold it in your hands it’s hard to believe that it could be so heavy, I can only imagine that the Bass guitar was made for Arnold Schwarzenegger!

[Dan Downey]

My first post here. I recently picked up a Thorens TD150 Mk ll off Craigs list. It is in decent shape but has not been cared for very well. The plinth is pretty rough and I'm pretty good with wood so I want to build a new one. I talked to Dave at Vinyl Nirvana and he has given me some good advice. My problem is I can't get the "golf ball" tone arm off to clean out the bearing well. I've loosened the allen screw, removed the bottom to see if there are any screws which go all the way thru (there aren't) and cannot see why it won't slide out. I'm reluctant to pull too hard.
I've read the manuals at analog dept for the 150 Mk 2 AB (my model) and it doesn't cover the removal.

Any help would be appreciated.

[alternativeroute]

My first post here. I recently picked up a Thorens TD150 Mk ll off Craigs list. It is in decent shape but has not been cared for very well. The plinth is pretty rough and I'm pretty good with wood so I want to build a new one. I talked to Dave at Vinyl Nirvana and he has given me some good advice. My problem is I can't get the "golf ball" tone arm off to clean out the bearing well. I've loosened the allen screw, removed the bottom to see if there are any screws which go all the way thru (there aren't) and cannot see why it won't slide out. I'm reluctant to pull too hard.
I've read the manuals at analog dept for the 150 Mk 2 AB (my model) and it doesn't cover the removal.

Any help would be appreciated.

You need to remove the 'circlip/support clip' thingy at the bottom of the tonearm first before you can get it out (also desolder the tonearm wires first)...

See this site for advise on how not to break the 'circlip/support clip' thingy: http://www.freewebs.com/bornin50-3/tp13.htm