Fixed cueing arm lift for Technics SL 1300-1400-1500 mk2

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dutchflea
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Re: Fixed cueing arm lift for Technics SL 1300-1400-1500 mk2

Post by dutchflea » 28 Sep 2016 18:39

The encircled part is not the muting switch but the sensor for the auto return point of the arm. It is actually opto-electronic (led + light sensor), not magnetic.

The screws are set screws with springs, they are not meant to be tighened all the way! Adjust them so that the sensor is level with the plate and there is about 0.5 to 1 mm space between the sensor and the plate. Also make sure the plate is not bended, i.e. the distance between the plate and the sensor is the same troughout the whole arm travel. If it is, try to bend it back a little bit carefully and check again until you have it right. Make sure the plate NEVER touches the sensor, that is the whole point of the optical sensor: for good operation it is critical that the arm can move totally free. It would be a shame to the have 7 microgram friction bearings Technics used and then have something else impeding the movement much more!

Next reinstall the arm and test the auto return. If it does not work you can adjust the pots under the platter on the small pcb, which connects to the sensor. See headings C and D on page 16 of the SL-1300MK2 service manual.

If the muting switch is not bothering you, you might as well leave it alone. It does not affect signal quality since it is not in the signal path: the mute principle is a simple short of the signal and return path. Actuallly I found the mute switch somewhat helpful since the spring in it assists the lift lever in turning and helps it over a "dead" point that might otherwise occur during descent of the arm.
Last edited by dutchflea on 28 Sep 2016 19:00, edited 7 times in total.

Roberto C2H3
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Re: Fixed cueing arm lift for Technics SL 1300-1400-1500 mk2

Post by Roberto C2H3 » 28 Sep 2016 18:45

dutchflea wrote:The encircled part is not the muting switch but the sensor for the auto return point of the arm. It is actually opto-electronic (led + light sensor), not magnetic.

The screws are set screws with springs, they are not meant to be tighened! Adjust it so that there is about one mm space between the sensor and the plate. Also make sure the plate is not bended, i.e. the distance between the plate and the sensor is the same troughout the whole arm travel.

Next reinstall the arm and test the auto return. If it does not work you can adjust the pots under the platter on the small pcb, which connects to the sensor. See headings C and D on page 16 of the SL-1300MK2 service manual.
dutchflea is of course completely correct! I failed to note that the circled part was not the muting switch. The muting switch actually has a black rectangular plastic mounted on a spring that gets pushed back and then comes back to position during cueing. 8) IMO its best to remove it during cueing repair.

Best from the Pampas,
roberto

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Re: Fixed cueing arm lift for Technics SL 1300-1400-1500 mk2

Post by bertiesme » 28 Sep 2016 18:53

Thanks dutchflea, this is exactly what I wanted to know- I'll get on with it now- By the way I repaired the lift using your drill 2 holes method and used metal wire to bind it tightly- I have ordered a new part from shapeways though, as if it fails some time, I will have the correct part to fix it- I'm so glad you are part of this wonderful Vinyl engine community - Yours and the other guys Technics advice has always been most helpful - Thanks also Roberto- Regards, Bertie

dutchflea
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Re: Fixed cueing arm lift for Technics SL 1300-1400-1500 mk2

Post by dutchflea » 28 Sep 2016 18:56

Glad to help, that is what this forum is for: learn and share! :)

Roberto C2H3
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Re: Fixed cueing arm lift for Technics SL 1300-1400-1500 mk2

Post by Roberto C2H3 » 28 Sep 2016 19:00

+ 1 on dutchflea's reply :D

You are more than welcome Bertie. Two years ago I returned to turntables and the members here taught me everything I had forgotten, and then some 8)

Best from the Pampas,
roberto

beeroscar
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Re: Fixed cueing arm lift for Technics SL 1300-1400-1500 mk2

Post by beeroscar » 26 Nov 2016 10:39

Hello repair wizards! I have a sl-1410 mk II. I went into the adventure of trying to repair the broken cueing mechanism. I have to give up the first time because two screws at the final plate couldn't be removed. So I reassembled the turntable and was happy..for a while.
Second try and I stopped at the same screws.
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This time I had to use a dremel tool to grind a notch in the screw head to use a flathead screw driver. The two screws are removed but the heads are destroyed. I'll deal with that problem later.
I removed the plastic piece but the problem is that the I can't remove the bushing. I removed the clip but the bushing does not come off.
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Does one have to remove the bushing in order to repair the plastic piece (or replace it with the one from shapeways).?
My bushing seems to be the smooth one with a groove in the middle. And the plastic piece is white.
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ryanmadam
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Re: Fixed cueing arm lift for Technics SL 1300-1400-1500 mk2

Post by ryanmadam » 26 Nov 2016 13:21

If I recall correctly, it comes off the top of that brass post. You need to remove the clip from the top side of the plate that's holding the post with the bushing. Read my instructions on page 6.

Ryan

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Re: Fixed cueing arm lift for Technics SL 1300-1400-1500 mk2

Post by njjano » 03 Dec 2016 01:02

Hello gents,

a question, especially to the creator of the shapeways design: why we need to include the original metal bushing? Why not creating the whole part from plastic, with the hole directly the right size for the shaft? As I investigated it, the part makes only a couple of degrees of turning movement, so I don't see any reason why it needs any metal insert? Without the metal ring the plastic could be at least 1mm more thick everywhere around, which means more strong as well... and could be used by those who own a table with the part already missing!

Thanks

Jano

sylvain999
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Re: Fixed cueing arm lift for Technics SL 1300-1400-1500 mk2

Post by sylvain999 » 03 Dec 2016 02:34

Or they could have glued the ring to the plastic to keep it from splitting. All this would never happen if they have made a closed damper so the silicon stays in .

dutchflea
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Re: Fixed cueing arm lift for Technics SL 1300-1400-1500 mk2

Post by dutchflea » 03 Dec 2016 16:32

They just should have made a design out of metal in the first place, problem solved. Or have done a total redesign with more space for a much thicker piece of plastic, or even better a design which puts less stress on such a small part. But hey, we have 3D printing so that is very nice.

The bushing is useful since it provides optimal low friction rotation. Without a bushing the design would need to be changed, otherwise when releasing the arm lift the part would easily get stuck in an intermediate position so not totally down.

Many of us who have done the repair will recognize this: if part itself, the arm plate or the muting switch, is not perfectly aligned this is enough to get the arm lift stuck somewhere in the middle. Of course this always happens after you totally put the whole player back together, and you can start the disassembly all over again. :mrgreen:

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Re: Fixed cueing arm lift for Technics SL 1300-1400-1500 mk2

Post by beeroscar » 07 Dec 2016 08:04

help I've received the part from shapeways. But it seems a tiny bit to tight to fit around the bushing. And I've still not managed to remove the bushing. (see my post on 26th of november). Will it be easer to fit the bushing inside the plastic piece from shapeways if I manage to remove the bushing. I'm trying to fit the bushing/ plastic piece together without removing the bushing from its original Place, but I'm afraid to break the plastic piece if I push to hard.
Any tips? (how to remove the bushing or how to fit the two parts together)
Cheers!

beeroscar
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Re: Fixed cueing arm lift for Technics SL 1300-1400-1500 mk2

Post by beeroscar » 07 Dec 2016 08:06

help I've received the part from shapeways. But it seems a tiny bit to tight to fit around the bushing. And I've still not managed to remove the bushing. (see my post on 26th of november). Will it be easer to fit the bushing inside the plastic piece from shapeways if I manage to remove the bushing. I'm trying to fit the bushing/ plastic piece together without removing the bushing from its original place, but I'm afraid to break the plastic piece if I push to hard.
Any tips? (how to remove the bushing or how to fit the two parts together)
Cheers!

dutchflea
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Re: Fixed cueing arm lift for Technics SL 1300-1400-1500 mk2

Post by dutchflea » 07 Dec 2016 10:57

No need to remove that bushing, I have repaired many and never removed it.

Dit you order the correct part? As described in this topic and with the product, there are 2 versions: one with a smooth bushing (tighter) and one with a knurled bushing (wider). If you have the correct piece you need to press it on pretty hard, it is a tight fit, but it fits. Hold the armplate with the bushing in your hands firmly and push it on with both thumbs. You can use some grease on the bushing if that makes it easier?

beeroscar
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Re: Fixed cueing arm lift for Technics SL 1300-1400-1500 mk2

Post by beeroscar » 07 Dec 2016 11:45

dutchflea wrote:No need to remove that bushing, I have repaired many and never removed it.

Dit you order the correct part? As described in this topic and with the product, there are 2 versions: one with a smooth bushing (tighter) and one with a knurled bushing (wider). If you have the correct piece you need to press it on pretty hard, it is a tight fit, but it fits. Hold the armplate with the bushing in your hands firmly and push it on with both thumbs. You can use some grease on the bushing if that makes it easier?
Thanks Dutchflea. I'll try a little bit harder. I think I ordered the right one. It's white and smooth. The part seems to have a tiny plastic "stripe" on the inner ring that matches the groove on the bushing (or maybe it's just some leftover after the 3D printing).

dutchflea
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Re: Fixed cueing arm lift for Technics SL 1300-1400-1500 mk2

Post by dutchflea » 07 Dec 2016 15:04

Sounds like the right part. Try a little harder. ;)

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