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Thorens TP11 MKI or TP16 MKI Rewiring

by Dimitris Lamprou

Starring: spare tp16mkI as TP11 MKI
(I’ve already rewired my TP11 and I could only use my spare TP16 as a demonstration model but the procedure is exactly the same)

The whole procedure is easy (giving the necessary attention) so don’t be afraid to try it. There is always the risk of breaking the plastic adaptors but you can easily rewire it so don’t be afraid that you’ll loose your tonearm’s functionality. On the other hand, if you like original vintage items then you should avoid rewiring because I find it very difficult to restore it to its original condition.

I hope that my photos are helpful enough for anyone trying to rewire the TP16 mkI or the TP11 mkI. I’m sorry for any mistakes in my text but English is not my native language.


step 1

Step 01: Remove the arm wand. You should first cut or unsolder the tonearm cables from the base side. Remove all weights. Pull the wand free and pull the cables out of the base.


step 2

Step 02: Remove the shaft which is holding the nut. Remove the nut holster. At this point you might find some glue making it hard to pull out. Persist carefully and it will come out.


step 3

Step 03: You should now remove the plastic shell containing the wire leads. It will also have some glue. If you try to keep it intact, be very careful, if you don’t care about it then use extra force.


step 4

Step 04: Now you should have something like this. You can see that the tonearm cables are free to come out.


step 5

Step 05: Close up. Not really a step, just have a cup of coffee and proceed with step 06.


step 6

Step 06: Remove the old wires from the wand. You can throw it away or if it is still intact keep it, you’ll never know….


step 7

Step 07: Twist the new cables together and push them gently into the wand. Push them all the way through until you can reach them from the other side.


step 8

Step 08: Don’t forget to get them through the tightening nut as well. Put the nut back in place and secure it with its metal shaft. At this point you might have some trouble keeping it tight because the plastic shell was doing a great job holding everything in place. I used a hot glue gun to secure in place. Perhaps there are other ways too.


step 9

Step 09: Check the cable at the exit point. They must move freely.


step 10

Step 10: Headshell time! Remove the shaft that’s holding the plastic adaptor in place. Don’t worry it’s easier than the wand side. The adaptor will come off and the way will be free to pass through the new cables.


step 11

Step 11: That’s the plastic adaptor coming out of the headshell. My exhibit headshell is from another TT so I couldn’t give you more photos.


step 12

Step 12: Comparison between my spare TP16 mkI modelling for this guide and the actually rewired TP11mkI. At this point you have the opportunity to solder and terminate the phono leads without stressing the cables. When you’ll pass the cables through the base (on the balance weight side of the arm) it would be difficult to handle them during soldering.


step 13

Photo 13: Close up view of the completed terminated phono leads. You can see the cable passage through the headshell.


step 14

Photo 14: Another view of the terminated phono leads


step 15

Step 15: The arm-exit / shaft-entry point just underneath the bearing point. REMEMBER to connect the grounding wire on the armwand. I used the old wire for this as it was already terminated with an o-ring.


step 16

Step 16: Connect the tonearm cable to the base. You can see some of my other mods, external power cord connector and new coaxial stereo cable for chassis female RCA’s.

For the rewiring I used Cardas 33 AWG Tonearm Wire and Cardas PCC E Cartridge Clips. The wire is TINY but it’s easier to handle than I thought.

I hope this information to be useful to any Thorens fan.



Spare Parts

The graphic lesson is really great, i have a TD 160 to "reborn" but i have no idea where buy the wiring kit show in these photos.
I live in Mexico

Thank you to everybody that write to me.

TD166 ground loop

Here is a follow up on my ground loop problem, the reason why I rewired my TT arm.

I used a very small silver wire covered with teflon. This is by far the best wire for small signal since the resistance is very small with that kind of wire. The only drawback was it's all the same color so I had to make sure which wire was which and have the polarity right.

The ground loop is now dead silent. And the sound is just beautiful.

I will have to get used to some apparent lost of base due to the previous ground loop which had tendency to amplify the base portion...some carrier wave phenomenon...


It was a very precise job but well worth it !


and finally some guy on forum told me how he has fixed a problem. small motor is generator of buzzing .one of 3 fixing screws of motor should be slighty loosed,a new gnd cable should be connected for that screw ,then tightened and then second end of cable connected with preamp or integrated amp gnd connector.and that is new and only gnd cable.If somebody is qualify can try and advise will this work.2 forum members claim it does.Brgds

hum or buzz in thorens td145c

checking and checking finally realized what are the two options for wiring TP16mkIV:

1st golden wire and dark green wire (gnd of arm) should be connected to terminal strip with green wire of audio cable and green wire of tonearm and they are connected with TT gnd via screw A located under plastic arm wiring cover.
solder log is also connected to terminal strip where green wires are soldered and connceted with crew A

2nd option is to remove gold and dark green wires fm terminal strip and solder it directly onto A crew solder log which in this case mustn't be connected with terminal strip but screw A only .Separate grounding cable of audio cable (external) also need to be connected to A.So in fact on terminal strip are connected only: 4 wires of tonearm and 4 wires of outer audio cable and they are not earthed with TT base.

in case of TP16mkI is the same but only less dark green wire and gold only (gnd of tonearm base)

hope this helps

hun or buzz in thorens td145c

this is my experience with thorens humming or buzzing but still not solved cause i don't have enough knowledge.
First my TP16mkIV is revwired by previous owner with vdHull internal phono wires but out of base there are 6 (six)wires.Green,blue,white red,dark green(soldered on end of the arm base)and gold.Where is gold wire connected inside arm i have no idea at all. SO gold ,green, dark green and shield of outer cable and phono is soldered together on terminal strip and connected via screw with TT ground .So when connected with preamp there is buzz on 11oclock on preamp which is really high.Buzz is louder and higher when separate grounding cable is connected.
Only way i get no buzz at all when i accidentaly disconected small piece with magnet and o,o22uF cappacitor part which is used for auto shut off. In that way TT was dead silent but lift cannot work if part is disconnected .
Now i am planning to buy some XLR 5 pin connectors male and female for the audio cable and find somebody who has patience and knowledge to dig into the problem.
Thorens obviously complicated things unnecessery


I have a formation in electronic so I have a scientific approach to the problem.
Of course, if the wiring was properly done, it "should" not make any noise. So, something else is responsible. I couldn't pass the wire direct because the arm is separated in the middle with a twisted connector (usually it's closed to the shell but not on mine).

Electric ? Motor. I tested the TT motor off. Same. I unplugged the transformer from the TT. Same.

I connected several ground wire to several places on the TT. Same.

Considering the electric diagram, my next test will be to eliminate the TT totally. I plan to connect the pickup with a similar wire directly to the preamp and listen... if there's a humm... the answer will be bad preamp.

It's definitively a groung loop (60 hrtz) those are the worst to eliminate.

Stay put for more...

Thorens TD 166D

Having a quite similar turntable that has a humming problem for a long time, I decided to rewire the arm according to what I saw in this article. My turntable suffured from a hum I just can't track, eventhough I changed the pick-up cartridge, the turntable audio wire, connectors, preamp, ad several groung wire everywhere...etc....

The change involved the dismantling of the arm in 2 separated pieces because this arm have a middle twist connector.

I followed the instructions above carefully. Let's say that removing the 2 plastic plugs was a real nightmare. Not only are they fragile, but they are stucked thanks to the aging. Then, it's impossible to pull each connector off the plug to resolder so I had to solder closed to it, on the old wire which is not really optimal.
Then, some of the connector's wire just broke. I had to push my new wire inside the plastig plug, hoping for a good connection that I couldn't solder in, but glued with hot glue outside.
Then, reassembly is also a big task. Realigning the plug inside with the cover for the holding pin was nearly impossible.

I spent a whole day completing the task.

My turntable is now completed. Tests reveal the hum is somehow lower but very present on high level, no disk playing.

I still don't know where it comes from and frankly, I tried everything in the book. I now begin to think I'll have to just replace the turntable, which is a lemon hunted by humming ghost...

Any advice ?

Hi, I could only imagine the


I could only imagine the difficulties for a 2-piece tonearm. I praise your patience to re-use the plastic connectors.
I just removed them from mine and run the cables straight through from headshell to base connectors.

As for the humming... it's difficult to help you. Have you checked any other possibility? Perhaps an electrical problem, or something with the motor?
When I first restored my TD160, a hum was present but it was due to a short circuit in one of the female RCA jacks. If you think that everything went ok with the rewiring process then you should recheck all the other possibilities.
Open a new topic in the thorens department, perhaps there is someone with a similar problem.

Sorry for not being very helpful,


Is possible rewiring for

Is possible rewiring for Thorens 240 ?

I really don't know... I've

I really don't know... I've never seen a TD240's tonearm.


I think that in the past tecnicians changed the coloured wiring when putting a new cardridge.
I would like to check if everythinh is ok or not.
Wile there are no colour-indications on the TP16 arm .... what do I do with the green-red-white and bleu wire???

thorens td125mkII

re wiring

This is great to see.

I own a REGA RB-300, which i was forced to re wire, because if you know the arm with its fixed headshell eventually the connecting wires get shorter and shorter. Then there is no wire left,
getting someone to re wire an arm commercially is not cheap. SO, great addition and well needed,
this also encourages people to "have a go" my re wiring job was like yours not dead easy, but not excessively hard.

What should be pointed out is that you end up with, a much better sounding arm.


Pleeeease post a guide!! I

Pleeeease post a guide!! I have a Thorens TD160 and a Rega Planar3 so it's time to rewire the RB-300 too.
It was easy to give it a try with the Thorens arm because I had 2. But in rega's case... I'm still reluctant to proceed.


Following your guide I was capable to fix a problem on my TP16 mkIII tonearm.
The ground pin for right channel on the connector was broken.
Easier than expected, I've extracted the plastic connector from the tonearm and I've replaced the pin (this was not so easy).
Anyway thank you for the valuable suggestions.

Sorry for not replying in

Sorry for not replying in time. I'm really happy that my guide is useful.

Ground Wire question

I found your article interesting because I have what is hopefully a wiring problem on my TT. I recently found a Benjamin Miracord Elac 40a which is in pretty good shape. One of the two leads from one of the RCA cables was broken off its terminal. I was able to identify the terminal to which it should be attached and resoldered it. More confusing is the complete lack of a ground wire which all turntables seem to have and which one connects to the rear of the receiver when playing the TT. I have been unable to find a schematic for this TT and don't know where I should attach a ground wire. I was hoping that you could explain where I should attach a ground wire to the Elac 40a. Thanks.

Hi, I think, correct me if

I think, correct me if mistaken, that it's not that strange not to have a ground wire. All REGA's are without one too. I'm not familiar with your TT but if there wasn't one in the first place then it's ok.

ground wire

If it's like Rega arms they will have joined the arm ground to one of the signal return wires.


TP16 tonearm

Thank you for the tutorial

I have a problem on the original tonearm (the one with the fixed headshell) since one pin on the intermediate connector has precarious contact. The solution is to dismantle the assy and clean or replace the pin contacts, in the mean time I'll provide to replace the original wires with something better.
I have some doubts on how to remove the shaft since it seems very delicate to me. Could you please give more details on this matter?

Thank you very much

Rewiring Thorens Tonearm

Thanks for the excellent instructions and photos. I have a 166 mkII and need to rewire the tonearm, but need info on how to best remove the pins holding the ferules to the arm tubes. (Photo 2). Do you have a specialized tool? I found an older article talking about this and they said to use a pin punch, but I can't fine one smaller tha 1/16", which is too big.


Sorry for my delayed answer.

Sorry for my delayed answer. I just realized that all the commends were actually questions...
You can use, that's what I did anyway, a set of clockwork screwdrivers. If the are of good quality then they can do the job nicely.

Thorens arm re-wiring

Thanks for the excellent, easy-to-follow and well illustrated instructions. Some photos (and perhaps advice) showing you soldering the wires to the cartridge connectors would have been useful, since I (and perhaps others) find it tricky.

cartridge clips soldering

I'm very happy that some of you find my guide helpful.
Unfortunately I don't have any soldering photos but I can tell you it's not that tricky. First of all you don't have to strip the wires, they are so thin that the solder iron heat will immediately melt the insulation. If you have any doubts then hold the wire against your working bench and gently scrap the insulation with a knife.
I used a pair of surgical scissors (not the cutting but the squeezing kind), secure the clip with one and try to secure the wire on a heavy surface (I used my desk) using some duct tape to ensure that it won't brake. If you find a way to keep the wire attached to the clip (by using scissors, clamps or any other means) then its ready to solder. You can also use tape on both ends, place the wire in the cartridge clip, place it on your desk or working bench, secure both ends with tape and you are ready to solder.
My first impression was that it would impossible to solder those thin wires, but in the end it proved a lot easier.

Thorens TP16 re-wire

I too, found your article invaluable. Thank you. I have one question and a few comments: I could not disengage the spring loaded wire which is I believe is for the anti-skate but I managed to re-wire my TP16 despite that obstacle.
Having re-wired several Rega RB300s successfully, I have two suggestions which could make the replacement work even better yet:
1st- Don't terminate the wire at the box under the plinth but rather buy suffcient lengths of each color wire to serve as the connection to your preamp. Then you will have eliminated several more solder/rca junctions which can degrade the signal. One continous connection from cartidge clip to rca is ideal.
2nd-If you follow the previous suggestion, you must shield the two leads from the point at which they exit the arm to the rca's, with wire braid to avoid radio frequency interference. This is a relatively inexpensive but highly useful technique. On my Rega tonearm, I could detect noise at 11 o'clock on my pre-amp's volume control set on phono with the tonearm locked down prior to re-wiring. After re-wire and shielding it was 2 o'clock before I could hear the same level of noise. Especially with low level phono signals, noise is the enemy.
3rd- Twist the two pairs of wires red (right signal) with green (right shield) and white (left signal) with (blue shield) for the entire length of the pairs of wire, whether you decide to terminate under the plinth or with RCA male plugs several feet beyond. This will further quiet any RF.
I can take no credit for these discoveries as friend, Dan Banquer made these suggestions which have proven to be excellent advice.