Ariston Pro advice

Tbolt · member Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 40 Location: Newark

Hi, I am new to this excellent forum.

Sorry if my question is already answered on this forum but I have searched for answers without success.

I bought an Ariston Pro on 6th May 1992 after my B&O system became too much of a pain to cope with (auto system faulty) and decided to go fully manual. My local dealer Chantry Audio in Tuxford (long closed) did not stock Rega so I bought the Pro. I also bought an Arcam Alpha from a mate for £30 (still going strong for my son and sounded better with the Pro than my Rotel).

The Pro has had little use because the kids were barred from using it and my wife does not like the fully manual deck.

I am now going to put my small vinyl collection on to my Mac Mini and suspected the Pro was running slow. I tested with a stopwatch and found 100 turns took 3 min 16 seconds. I have replaced the belt (coated in talc) and the speed and pick up has improved but only by 10 seconds not 16.

I have tested the voltage for the DC power supply and this shows 18 volts. I believe that anything over 15 volts is good for the Pro.

Any further advice for what to do next is most welcome.

If I need to change the motor where can I obtain a replacement or better still an upgrade?

I have a spare owners manual if any one wants one.

I will also scan manual to forum with Ariston leaflets for Pro and Q deck for 1992 if I can get scanner to work with Mac.

Thanks

Tbolt

JaS · Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 6:11 pm Post subject:

Hi,
AC synchronous motors like those in the Rega have speed regulated by the mains frequency, but if your Ariston has a DC power supply/motor then it is voltage dependent and there may be a pot for adjusting speed on the regulator board inside?

Regards,
JaS

Tbolt · member Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 40 Location: Newark

Hi Jas, Thanks for your prompt reply.

I have taken the bottom off the turntable and released the motor fromthe board to examin it.

The DC motor has no seperate regulator. It is wired direct to the female power input, the on/off button and the speed switch 33/45.

The motor (SHR2R 50-1Z30C) has a small hole on top through which the rotor can be seen to turn. Underneath there art two further holes one is marked H the other marked L. Through these holes screws are visible. Would these be for adjustment H (high), L (low)?

Regards Tbolt

Alec124c41 · Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 10:20 pm Post subject:

Does the main bearing need to be cleaned and oiled?

Cheers,
Alec

Tbolt · member Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 40 Location: Newark

Alec124c41 · Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 10:17 pm Post subject:

Can you try a thicker belt? This will give you a bit more speed.

Alec

Tbolt · member Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 40 Location: Newark

Hi Alec, I will try and trace a thicker belt.

I will also try some other tests with slight adjustments using tape on the platter to change ratio.

Thanks

Alec124c41 · Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 11:57 pm Post subject:

Adding tape to the platter will slow it.

Cheers,
Alec

FeiJi Fancier · Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 3:54 pm Post subject:

@ TBOLT

Did you manage to scan the manual? I also have a Pro, which I have dragged out of retirement.

Everything looks fine, I'm not too hung up on speed issues, though, so long as it sounds right and doesn't suffer from rumble or wow & flutter.

I am having a problem with levelling the TT though. While I can get the plinth absolutely level, if I then fit the platter I can't get it to level any longer with or without the rubber mat fitted.

Another problem is the plinth's wooden surround. It has come loose and I'm not sure if this is a problem or not.

Does your TT have a small velcro pad next to the start button. Mine does, but I can't recall whether it was something I fitted myself, or whether that is how it was supplied! If as supplied, what was it for?

I'm also looking for a few things: -

New belt.
Pixall & refills.
Dustbug style cleaning arm - preferably with fore brush and collector.
Replacement isolation feet (I have four AT feet, but one has sprung apart)

A single online source would be helpful - to cut down on delivery costs for such small items.

Incidentally, my Ariston Pro looks a lot more like a Q-Deck than the Pro 1200. I am guessing that they re-used the "Pro" name more recently.

Tbolt · member Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 40 Location: Newark

Hi FeiJi Fancier,

I have not scanned the manual yet as my old scanner not working since I changed my computer (will try at the office).

I can send you a photocopy if you send your address to my email gerry119uk@yahoo.co.uk

My Pro is 1991-1992 era and is the same as Qdeck but without arm return and alloy plinth is black.

Link to Qdeck image from gallery http://www.vinylengine.com/php.....ic_id=2545

Mine has a felt mat not rubber.
The base is solid MDF and the bearing is set into this. If the platter is not level with the base has the bearing moved in any way?

I do not have any velcro next to the start button.

I can not recommend parts suppliers. I purchased a Qdeck belt from ebay.

I had a dust bug years ago but did not get on with it. They turn up on ebay.

There are many opinions on oil on this forum and are worth reading.

Good luck with the TT.

Gerry

FeiJi Fancier · Posted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 11:19 pm Post subject:

So the Qdeck belt was fine? They're easy to find, but I wondered if they were the same as some Qdeck images I've seen have been slightly different, but yours is identical, except that it is black, not bare aluminium.

Don't worry about the manual unduly, but when you have time if you can upload it that would be great.

Oh, mine has a factory fitted Goldring 10-10 (which are expensive to replace) cartridge fitted, too. Not, what looks like, the Ortofon your Qdeck has.

I use an oil that was recommended originally for my RC model helicopter, it has exceptionally low friction. But I've had to stow it away for the time being, while my kitchen is being redecorated.

I found an original Watts Dustbug on eBay and am using de-ionised, distilled water as a humidifier to reduce static. The original stuff evaporated years ago. Some of my records could really do with a very deep clean, though, because they're so old.