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Any advice on a 25-year-old SL-J2 that's never been used?

 
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The Pounder
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 28, 2009 8:25 pm    Post subject: Any advice on a 25-year-old SL-J2 that's never been used? Reply with quote

I recently obtained an SL-J2 (linear tracker) still in the original box, and it appears to have never been set up. I'm not an expert on turntables and wondered if I should be checking anything before I try to use it. The top of the lid has some kind of dried adhesive on it, which makes me wonder if it got hot at one time and something stuck to it. Could there be potential problems with the linear tracking drive? Should I lube anything? Any help is greatly appreciated.
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flavio81
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 28, 2009 8:57 pm    Post subject: Re: Any advice on a 25-year-old SL-J2 that's never been used Reply with quote

The Pounder wrote:
I recently obtained an SL-J2 (linear tracker) still in the original box, and it appears to have never been set up. I'm not an expert on turntables and wondered if I should be checking anything before I try to use it. The top of the lid has some kind of dried adhesive on it, which makes me wonder if it got hot at one time and something stuck to it. Could there be potential problems with the linear tracking drive? Should I lube anything? Any help is greatly appreciated.


1. You don't need to calibrate anything, not even the cartridge alignment since it's a p-mount.

2. Test that the tonearm moves smoothly (without making "bump" noises when a quiet record is being played)

If point (2) fails you'll have to open up the turntable to lubricate the tonearm guide rails and the guiding mechanism (it uses a belt to move the tonearm). Tonearm belts are sold on LPgear dot com.

Congrats, it looks nice and i bet it should sound as good as the SL-10, 15 or SL-7. What cartridge does it has?
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Trajic
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 8:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just bought a low miles SL-10 and had no problem just plugging it in and playing it. My advice would be to just play the 'table and see how it sounds. Chances are you're in the clear. As was previously stated, you can't screw up the cartridge alignment since it's a P-mount. As long as your record is clean and the stylus is clean you should be in business. Download the manual and figure out how the tonearm transport works. A little proactive maintenance will go a long way. In the meantime just enjoy.

Brett Schultz
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fscl
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 1:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tpder,

Welcome to VE.

CONGRATULATIONS on the SL. An "in original box never set up unit" is a real vintage pirate's treasure booty...... Smile Applause

ALL manuals are here:

http://www.vinylengine.com/lib.....l-j2.shtml

You probably have the original Owner's Manual. The service manual is great to have for future reference.

My fellow linear fans have already dispensed with good advise. So yes, just plug and play and see how she does.

I believe, the SL-J2 is a further evolved SL-6 with direct access to songs via multiple button pushes and LED display in lieu of actual direct access push buttons.

I cross referenced the EPS 30 stylus on JICO's site:

http://www.export-japan.com/ma.....cts_id=638

and it looks like Technics OEMed an Audio Technica P-mount for the SL-J2 instead of using one of their own cartridges supplied / referenced on the SL-6. It's a conical and should sound good if the tt was not used / used much. If in fact it is an AT cartridge, you can move up to an elliptical stylus replacement in the future. AT cartridge bodies are fairly standard and can accommodate a range of their replacement styli.

Oh yes, the sticky stuff on the cover?, probably left over residue from a peel off plastic protective cover, like on new cell phone screens and protects the units soft plastic from scratches during shipment.

Somebody's peeled off the plastic, however, as the unit was not used, the sticky stuff stuck to the unit instead of lifting off with the disposable plastic. Try using some cleaner, Fantastic, Windex, isopropyl alcohol, WD-40...etc, sprayed on a soft cloth (diaper) to see what dissolves the adhesive, use the best acting one to remove it all.

Then, pick out a nice vinyl and play, using it to experiment with all of the tt controls outlined in the Owner's Manual.

Edit: Hey, I see you already have an SL-7, this should sound very similar and further automates vinyl play and why I added an SL-QL15 to my collection (looking to further ease my vinyl transfer process)...... I've also noticed that Technics had 2 types of linears, lightweight and heavyweight and noticed that they were priced accordingly (See MSRP).

http://www.vintagetechnics.info/turntables.htm

Good luck.

Fred and addicted to Technics linears after my first SL-7..... Smile
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flavio81
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 2:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fscl wrote:
Try using some cleaner, Fantastic, Windex, isopropyl alcohol, WD-40..


Don't use WD-40 on plastics! It contains kerosene and oil.
Try glass cleaner first.
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fscl
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 3:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

f81 wites:

Quote:
Don't use WD-40 on plastics! It contains kerosene and oil.


I've escalated my list of solvent cleaning solutions on purpose and have used WD-40 on plastics with no ill effects and AGAIN JUST NOW on my SL-QL15 cover with no problems.

WD-40 is known to dissolve adhesive residue and may have the right combinations of ingredients to take off the residue more easily:

http://www.wd40.com/uses-tips/.....n-the-job/

and which may be needed in this case for 25yo adhesive.

Also, I recommended that you spray whatever the solution of choice onto a soft cloth and test first. The important thing is to experiment on a small patch and go slow to witness effectiveness.

Good luck.

Fred and wouldn't recommend anything I haven't tired before myself...especially on my linear babies..... Shocked
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flavio81
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fscl wrote:
f81 wites:

Quote:
Don't use WD-40 on plastics! It contains kerosene and oil.


I've escalated my list of solvent cleaning solutions on purpose and have used WD-40 on plastics with no ill effects and AGAIN JUST NOW on my SL-QL15 cover with no problems.

WD-40 is known to dissolve adhesive residue and may have the right combinations of ingredients to take off the residue more easily:

http://www.wd40.com/uses-tips/.....n-the-job/

and which may be needed in this case for 25yo adhesive.

Also, I recommended that you spray whatever the solution of choice onto a soft cloth and test first. The important thing is to experiment on a small patch and go slow to witness effectiveness.

Good luck.

Fred and wouldn't recommend anything I haven't tired before myself...especially on my linear babies..... Shocked


Fred, thank you very much. I stand corrected.
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The Pounder
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 4:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I finally tried it out. Hooked it up to the old Kenwood KA-7300 amp and JBL L65 speakers, and it sounds great! Makes a nice vintage setup.

I think my old SL-7 probably sounds a little better than the SL-J2, but not much. The J2 came with an Audio Technica DR400E cartridge. It's hard to compare them since the SL-7 died on me (very sad; I bought it new in '81).

The J2 seems to work fine except that the track skip feature is a bit finicky. Setting the sensitivity to High helps. I still can't get the residue off the cover. I tried some soapy water and then tried the WD-40; neither one did much. I 'll try Windex and alcohol next.

Thanks for the suggestions, everybody. It's nice to find other people that are into the Technics linear trackers. Since my original one died I've bought 4 others, a couple of which are barely usable but it's fun to play around with them.
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flavio81
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Pounder wrote:

I think my old SL-7 probably sounds a little better than the SL-J2, but not much. The J2 came with an Audio Technica DR400E cartridge. It's hard to compare them since the SL-7 died on me (very sad; I bought it new in '81).

The J2 seems to work fine except that the track skip feature is a bit finicky. Setting the sensitivity to High helps. I still can't get the residue off the cover. I tried some soapy water and then tried the WD-40; neither one did much. I 'll try Windex and alcohol next.

Thanks for the suggestions, everybody. It's nice to find other people that are into the Technics linear trackers. Since my original one died I've bought 4 others, a couple of which are barely usable but it's fun to play around with them.


What is wrong with them?
They should be immortal. When they fail is usually some of the following:

(a) tonearm grease has hardened up
(b) tonearm belt(s) is(are) shot
(c) electrolytic capacitors are shot

Either of those is easy to solve. There are no wearable parts on the turntable motor!!!
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The Pounder
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 7:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="flavio81"]
The Pounder wrote:


What is wrong with them?
They should be immortal. When they fail is usually some of the following:

(a) tonearm grease has hardened up
(b) tonearm belt(s) is(are) shot
(c) electrolytic capacitors are shot

Either of those is easy to solve. There are no wearable parts on the turntable motor!!!


There is something wrong with the motor on the SL-7. When I start it up it spins way faster than 33 rpm. Capacitor maybe?

I ended up with two SL-J33 units, which both work. One of them looks nice but the track selection doesn't work - it sees the album side as one track. Everything works on the other one but it looks pretty rough. The lid has pieces broken out of it and some of the buttons are crooked. I was hoping to get the nice one working correctly with parts from the other one.

I also got an SL-J1, a belt-drive unit. The belt is missing and it also looks pretty rough. I figured I'd get a belt for it and see if the cartridge is any good.
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flavio81
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 10:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="The Pounder"]
flavio81 wrote:
The Pounder wrote:


What is wrong with them?
They should be immortal. When they fail is usually some of the following:

(a) tonearm grease has hardened up
(b) tonearm belt(s) is(are) shot
(c) electrolytic capacitors are shot

Either of those is easy to solve. There are no wearable parts on the turntable motor!!!


There is something wrong with the motor on the SL-7. When I start it up it spins way faster than 33 rpm. Capacitor maybe?


Even when the speed selector is fixed at 33?
How fast does it go? Does it go really fast?
Does it go faster when you set the speed at 45?

Maybe you can start checking if the hall elements (below the platter) are giving signal, and then using the schematic to check the capacitors that could be around.

The hall elements sense the turntable speed. If they give no signal, the TT controller's reaction might be to increase speed to the max possible.
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fscl
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 3:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tpder writes:
Quote:
There is something wrong with the motor on the SL-7. When I start it up it spins way faster than 33 rpm. Capacitor maybe?

I ended up with two SL-J33 units, which both work. One of them looks nice but the track selection doesn't work - it sees the album side as one track. Everything works on the other one but it looks pretty rough. The lid has pieces broken out of it and some of the buttons are crooked. I was hoping to get the nice one working correctly with parts from the other one.

I also got an SL-J1, a belt-drive unit. The belt is missing and it also looks pretty rough. I figured I'd get a belt for it and see if the cartridge is any good.


CONGRATS on getting the SL-J2 working and playing in the Vintage setup. Technics linears are the bomb. Smile

The SL-7 is fixable. As f81 says a place to start is the Hall sensor. However, I suggest that you start a separate post on the SL 7 spinning too fast. Hopefully, member Shoji will see it and give you detailed instructions on how to solve / correct. Especially, if you like the SL-7 better. I have a feeling that the Technics heavyweight linears sound slightly better as better / heavier materials of construction are used.

This is the same reason my SL-QL1 sounds slightly better than my SL-QL15. The foot print is the same, however, the QL1 is heavier w/ more rigid cover, hinge assembly... etc. The SL-7 is surprisingly heavy, heavier than the SL-J2. I was amazed how much the SL-7 weighed the first time I picked it up.

With the SL-J33s, clean BOTH guide rods, tonearm and sensor eye guide rod. Also, clean the eye with some glass / cleaner windex. It's not focusing / seeing / sensing correctly, so make sure you've got the lens clean. I'm sure you can get the better looking J33 working too.

Lastly, you can always remove the cartridge from the J1 and put it into the J2 to see how the cartridge sounds. It's a P-mount and easily interchangeable.

Nothing like getting a vintage tt working or ANY vintage piece of electronics cleaned, shined, restored and working......

Fred and just went through a Tandberg R2R and she sounds fine when the tubes / valves are just turned on.... Very Happy Very Happy Dancing Dancing and looking into replacement tubes / valves.... cause she starts to lose fidelity when she's on for a while..... Sad
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flavio81
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 3:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fscl wrote:

Fred and just went through a Tandberg R2R and she sounds fine when the tubes / valves are just turned on.... Very Happy Very Happy Dancing Dancing and looking into replacement tubes / valves.... cause she starts to lose fidelity when she's on for a while..... Sad


Wait wait wait...

Get the schematics and check if the bias resistors (or all resistors near the tubes) are still on their specified values.

Remember, tubes can last A LOT. And with "a lot", that sometimes means "the whole life of the equipment".

Or get those tubes tested first. Professionally tested, since common tube testers only check for filament continuity and cathode to anode emission (no grid involved.)
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