Rega RB300
The RB300 was the first arm built by Rega in Britain
Description
The arm features a beautifully cast one piece arm tube and headshell, closely toleranced bearings, rigid bearing housings and magnetic frictionless bias compensation.
VTF is applied by a dial on the side of the vertical pivot housing.
A spring within the mechanism applies maximum negative VTF at the zero setting and above three grams the spring is effectively disconnected.
Wiring is slightly unusual in that the arm tube is grounded via the left channel ground wire so there is no earth wire to connect back at the preamp.
Specifications
Effective length: 237mm
Overhang: 15mm
Mounting distance: 222mm
Effective mass: 11.5g
Cartridge weight: 4 to 11g
Review
Despite its modest price it sets exceptional performance standards and could be used on many high end turntables - HFN 1989
It was clear after only a few minutes audition, that the RB300 was a top flight performer. Depending on the chosen player, it proved quite comfortable in the company of other reference tonearms - £90 HiFi Choice 1984
Despite controversy over ultimate sound quality this is still a lot of arm for the money - The Flat Response 1984
Downloads
(oem) instruction/owners manual (en)
(early) instruction/owners manual (en)
(late) instruction/owners manual (en)
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Rega RB300 / RB 300 owners manual, service manuals and schematics are for reference only and the Vinyl Engine bears no responsibility for errors or other inaccuracies. The PDF files are provided under strict licence. Reproduction for financial gain is strictly prohibited. This website is not affiliated with or sponsored by Rega.
User Reviews
Amazing value for money and capable of being used with expensive decks and cartridges without embarrassing itself.
10/10 by JaS
Still a little on the grey side but better sound out the box than the RB250.
Easy to set up and maintain despite need for extras for VTA.
Can be upgraded but would rather start from a higher base.
Well made and a bargain at the price.
7/10 by abril
no comment
9/10 by namtab
fab arm for the price. Works well with both MM & MC carts alike. Only the wiring & height adjustment lets it down.
9/10 by rockdove
I have had mine upgraded by Origin Live. Rewired, structural modification and spring removed. Now sounds amazing even with a modest Ortofon Red.
9/10 by electrovoice
Amazing value for money but let down by poor internal wiring. When upgraded with Litz wire internally and RB700 external cable this arm is way better especially with image precision, clarity of upper frequencies and bass slam. Also needs a better counterweight (tungsten). limited by lack of VTA adjustment, you need to buy another accessory. Upgraded, still sounds s bit forward and sibilant in the upper mid compared to higher quality arms like Jelco or SME. But great value for money.
7/10 by Ccptan
Comments
Rega RB300 thread size and pitch for the cartridge weight
Is the thread pitch for the cartridge weight stub on the Rega arms (RB300) M12x1.0 pitch (fine thread)? I am attempting to change to a Michell Tecnoweight and the internal threads of the arm are a bit buggered?? I need to run a flat nose tap in a bit to clear the problem but am not sure of the thread pitch.
removal of audio technica oc9 cartridge which has v tight screws
geoff menzer
I recently had my systemdeck11 flown to me in secure(so I thought) packaging.
However the OC9 cartridge on the rega 300 arm had its stylus assembly damaged, so I need to replace cartridge.
But the screws are very tight and I am having trouble finding tools to grip the nut,and the head of screw has no thread(does it need an allan wrench? The head SEEMS to be circular with a'hole' in it which seems to be circular,not hexagonal...or is it looking that way as it is small?
HELP.
PS As the arm is mounted on the deck etc , it is not easy to get a good grip due to the limitation of movement.So far I tried with the locking screw for travelling in place, and the arm secured on its safety rest.
PPS I have an OC5 partly used to replace it,which,incidentally I preferred tyhe sound of.(Or maybe the dealer did not do a good job of fixing it?
Allen key
Hi,
It most probably an allen bolt so you'll need a hexagonal driver to remove it. If it's rounded off you can either carefully drill the head off, or if the head is proud of the slots you can try gripping it with pliers or hacksawing a slot in the head to take a straight blade screwdriver? Another trick is to use a torx bit the right size to fit what is left of the hole?
Regards,
JaS